Travel Review: A Day With Famous Fat Dave
www.famousfatdave.com
It was my family's first trip to the Big Apple, and my first opportunity to play tourist in NYC, so everything had to be
perfect. In seven days I was going to do all the things I'd been dreaming about: The museums, the Met,
Carnegie Hall, Broadway, an affair with Salma Hayek. Well, four out of five is not bad. But most important of all, I was going to eat my way across the five boroughs, trying all the great foods you can't get in California. One thing for sure: I wasn't going to cover all that territory in just one week riding the subway. I needed help. I needed Famous Fat Dave. I don't remember how I learned of Dave Freedenberg and his eating tours of New York. I may have stumbled onto his website one night while researching New York nightlife, or I may have seen the issue of People where he was selected as one of the sexiest men in America. At any rate I found him, and thank goodness I did, because our
five hours with Dave was the highlight of our New York vacation. Dave has a very simple and straightforward
business model. For a hundred clams per hour (with a four hour minimum) he drives you around Manhattan,
Brooklyn and/or the Bronx, and takes you to all manner of wonderful eating establishments, places where the
food is delicious, plentiful and C H E A P. My kind of tour. While he enjoys taking people to some of the famous
New York eateries, like Katz's Deli, he really specializes in helping you discover the out-of-the-way little places
that help make this a Real New York Experience. He picked us up at our hotel on a Friday morning, and the
noshing began even before we pulled away from the curb. He handed me a small parcel wrapped in butcher
paper and said "Here's your appetizer". It turned out to be a tasty hunk of gouda from Murray's Cheese Shop.
By the time we had passed that around we had arrived at our first stop "H & H Bagel", right up the street from
our hotel on Broadway. I guess some people say that H & H bagels are not the genuine article. I don't know
if they're authentic or not, but they're damn good, especially when they're still piping hot. There may be a better
bagel out there somewhere but if there is, I promise you it's not in California. From there we moved on to our
first orgasmic experience of the day: Tres leches doughnuts at The Donut Plant. I'm not a doughnut fanatic,
I buy them for my staff at work because they insist it's my responsibility, but beyond that I want nothing to do with
those little artery-clogging rings of fat. But The Donut Plant's tres leches doughnut is a small miracle, a delicious treat that elevates the doughnut into the realm of the gourmet. I casually asked the owner how he goes about
making these delectable products, and he casually pointed to the door and made a suggestion involving a doughnut and a member of my immediate family. On that note we piled back into Dave's Wayback Machine and cruised over to Chinatown, for sesame pancakes with beef at The Dumpling House on Eldridge. This was something I'd been looking forward to for many moons, and it was worth the wait. This item is essentially a thin beef sandwich, but no description can possibly convey the overwhelming rapture you experience with your first bite of this freshly
made masterpiece. And once again, this is one of those things you CAN'T FIND IN CALIFORNIA. For Pete's sake, we have the highest crime rate, the highest gas prices, the highest state taxes, the worst roads, the worst schools, at least let us have some sesame pancakes!! Well, back to the tour. It was time for a bit of old New York, a landmark that has stood proudly in the Lower East Side for over a century, yes of course I'm talking about Regis Philbin. No I'm not. I'm talking KATZ'S Deli. The REAL Katz's!! A REAL NEW YORK DELI!! Now I was in heaven. This makes it all worthwhile, I thought, the 8-hour flight, changing planes in Denver,going through security and having to take our shoes off, my son asking me fifteen times why do we have to take our shoes off, the old lady in line ahead of us who refused to take her shoes off, it all seems forgettable now as that first bite of pastrami begins to caress my taste buds. Katz's is everything a deli should be, it's the best deli in New York, and it's closing soon to make way for high-rise apartments. My guess is it will re-open somewhere in a new location and it'll be just as good. But if you're coming to New York anytime soon make the pilgrimage to the original classic Katz's, the Carnegie Hall of Delis. After one of these sandwiches we definitely
needed something cold and frosty, but since Leona Helmsley had just passed away a few weeks earlier, we had
to settle for orange drinks at the Reben Luncheonette in Brooklyn. The drink was called "Morir Sonando" which sounds like the opening act for Ricky Martin but actually means "to die in a dream". It was a drink to die for, no question, a simple concoction of milk, sugar and orange juice that reminded me of Orange Julius, back when
Orange Julius was actually good. At this point Dave was getting a little frustrated with my kids. My teenage daughter is a strict vegetarian, and my son only eats pizza, so he was struggling to maintain their interest in the tour. He finally suggested a trip out to the original Nathan's at Coney Island, and we immediately agreed. If you've only experienced Nathan's products at the local grocery, you haven't had a real Nathan's hot dog. What you get out there in Coney Island is the real thing, without a doubt one of the best hot dogs you'll ever eat. It was interesting to see all that's left of the boardwalk --obviously Coney Island will soon be only a memory. Enjoy it while you can. When we left Coney Island both my kids began to chant from the back seat "We want pizza. We want pizza. We want PIZZA!" Dave & I tried to ignore them but to no avail. We went first to L & B Spumoni Gardens in Bensonhurst, a great neighborhood joint straight out of a Scorsese movie, which serves thick square Sicilian slices and delicious spumoni, then to a classic New York pizzeria, Patsy's in East Harlem, for Real New York Pizza. As my daughter would say OMG. Good stuff. Now my kids were happy. We could safely slip into the Bronx and visit New York's REAL Little Italy, Arthur Ave. I could have spent a whole day in this neighborhood alone, enjoying the overwhelming array of Italian delicacies. We had fresh raw clams at Randazzo's, prosciutto and mozzarella from the Arthur Ave Retail Market, and finished the tour with hand-piped cannolis from Madonia Brothers Bakery. Abundanza! What a day. All I can say if you want a real New York Experience, the ability to sample as many different varieties of food in as many neighborhoods as possible in the shortest possible time, there is only choice: Famous Fat Dave. Dave will give you a day to remember, whether you're a first-time visitor or you've been to NYC a thousand times. He is a genuine New York cab driver, but he's also a genuinely nice guy. You would enjoy his company even if you were driving around Billings, Montana instead of New York. He talks to you as a friend, not like a tour guide talking to a group of tourists. I can't recommend this tour too highly. As I said it was the highlight of our trip, and it will be for you too.
